NYC’s Iconic Delmonico's Gets in on the Mushrooms-As-Meat Trend

Since its inception in 1837, Delmonico’s Steakhouse in lower Manhattan has been a pioneer in culinary innovation, consistently presenting à la carte menus that celebrate timeless dishes. 

Instagram/Delmonico’s

Recognized as the birthplace of iconic American recipes such as Eggs Benedict, Baked Alaska, Lobster Newburg, and the Delmonico Steak, the historic restaurant has always been synonymous with culinary excellence. 

Now, Delmonico’s is taking a bold step into the future by introducing a completely plant-based version of one of its iconic dishes: the Chicken a la Keene. And it’s tapping into the booming mushroom trend to do it. 

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The original Chicken a la Keene./Simon Tchoukriel

The vision behind plant-based Chicken a la Keene

The original Chicken a la Keene made its debut on Delmonico’s menu in the 1880s, attributed to the culinary genius of chef Charles Ranhofer. Named after Olympic gold medalist Foxhall P. Keene, the dish quickly became a staple at the restaurant. 

This creamy chicken creation featured a sherry sauce, English peas, cherry tomatoes, and asparagus, offering a harmonious blend of rich, savory flavors. Chicken a la Keene was a frequent carte du jour special at Delmonico’s in the 1940s and remained a beloved choice until the restaurant’s temporary pandemic-related closure in 2020.

In 2024, Dennis Turcinovic, owner and managing partner of Delmonico’s Restaurant Group, and chef Natalie Prhat decided to give the more than 140-year-old dish a refresh.

“The two of us spoke about how we can turn one of Delmonico’s most iconic dishes into a plant-based version for more people to enjoy the restaurant’s history and culinary innovation,” Turcinovic tells VegNews. “Delmonico’s is always evolving, always innovating but it also stays true to its history and the dishes it is known for.” 

“Reinventing Chicken a la Keene into a plant-based version was a challenge, but [chef Natalie Prhat] delivered an exceptional dish,” he says. “This new plant-based version is a nice way for vegan and vegetarian diners to enjoy one of the restaurant’s most popular dishes.”

While excellent plant-based chicken products are currently on the market, Prhat turned to a trendy (and meaty) ingredient, mushrooms, to nail the texture and flavor of the main part of the dish. 

“My inspiration for using lion’s mane mushroom was very intentional,” Prhat tells VegNews. “It was to ultimately give patrons an experience similar to that of their steak-eating friends. The overall mouthfeel is rich and slightly chewy.” 

“When lion’s mane is prepared properly, a very meat-like texture is achieved,” she says.

The new plant-based Chicken a la Keene./Simon Tchoukriel

Crafting a new classic with mushrooms 

The chef’s approach to creating the plant-based Chicken a la Keene involved extensive research and a deep understanding of the original dish.

“The creative process of developing a Delmonico’s-inspired dish involved thorough research,” Prhat says. “As I delved into the history and traditional ingredients used, I identified the finest alternatives.” 

The new dish is served over artisanal lentil pasta with miso beurre blanc sauce and topped with crispy lentils for added crunch. 

“I made a few enhancements to elevate the dish and infuse it with some unique touches, such as incorporating miso into the sauce and adding flash-fried seasoned lentils for texture,” Prhat says.

The key to nailing the classic Chicken a La Keene cruxes on using high-quality Ingredients; marinating the mushrooms with a blend of savory elements to boost umami; and balancing flavors with a mix of supporting ingredients. 

To get the texture, flavor, and presentation just right, Prhat seers the lion’s mane mushroom until it is caramelized, layers the flavors, and then plates the dish with fresh elements for visual appeal. 

Delmonico’s diners are loving the new plant-based dish

While Delmonico’s is still a place where people go for a classic steak, the new dish is already gaining popularity among a diverse portion of its clientele. 

Delmonco’s/Instagram

“Vegetarian and non-vegetarian guests have shared that it truly rivals the original dish,” Turcinovic says. “The flavor profiles are similar but distinct in their own right. Lion’s mane mushroom offers that meaty texture. Some people are surprised to learn it’s 100-percent vegan.”

Looking ahead, Turcinovic envisions a continued evolution of Delmonico’s menu to incorporate more innovative plant-based offerings.

“We want people of all dietary preferences to be able to enjoy a fine-dining meal that doesn’t need to consist of a salad and a plain pasta,” Turcinovic says. “There are plans to incorporate more innovative, flavorful vegetarian dishes on Delmonico’s menu.”

Delmonico’s is a veritable trailblazer in the culinary world. It is America’s first fine-dining establishment, the first restaurant to have women dine unaccompanied by men, and even the first to use the term “restaurant.” 

This legacy of firsts continues with the introduction of the plant-based Chicken a la Keene, setting a new standard for fine-dining establishments seeking to embrace the plant-based trend.

“As we move through 2024, it’s clear that diners are increasingly seeking thoughtfully crafted, intentional plant-based options,” she says. “If Delmonico’s Steakhouse can embrace the value of incorporating a plant-inspired dish, we’re looking at a promising future. My goal is to make sure every guest feels genuinely valued and included, and to ensure a dining experience that is both exciting and worry-free.”

Anna Starostinetskaya is the Senior News Editor at VegNews and is always keeping an eye on all things vegan in her home city of San Francisco, CA and everywhere else.